Maid of Melrose

Say Whaaat?: Norma Kamali for Wal Mart

2008-02-28T00:35:00.002Z

At first, I thought I was misreading the headline. Then, I got the sensation that I was dreaming. But no, it's true - WWD has reported that Norma Kamali is designing a collection for Wal-Mart.

I know she's not John Galliano or anything, but Norma was kind of a big deal back in the '70s and '80s - I mean, her work is in the Costume Institute. Target would make sense, but Wal-Mart? I know it's where the Olsens got their start, but even so, fashion credentials are definitely not one of its strong points.

In her statement for WWD, she explains that she's looking to bring her vision of 'wellness' to a wider audience. If wellness can be equated with cut-price versions of her super-sexy bikinis, I might just have to rethink my aversion to bargain-basement shopping...

Red Carpet Report: Oscar Night

2008-02-25T05:33:00.011Z

It's my first Oscar night in LA, and I've come to realize that the ceremony is to this city what the Super Bowl is to...well, everywhere else in the country. People throw parties in their honor, bars and restaurants erect big screens on which to watch the red carpet procession, there were more column inches devoted to 'Who's Going to Win' speculation last week than to the presidential race.

With all that buildup, my expectations were high - so maybe that's why I was disappointed? For one thing, where was everyone? I've never really followed the big awards ceremonies before, so am not sure if this is normal, but was quite surprised to see how few of the big-name celebrities actually turned up. No Brangelina, no Tomkat, no Reese or Kiera or Sienna or ANYONE, really, except for the obvious nominees (and, randomly, Miley Cyrus, Heidi Klum and Jessica Alba).

More than that, though, I was disappointed by the extremely safe (read, boring) dresses on the red carpet. Black and neutral and red and strapless and floor length - I mean, I have a feeling that most of it was out of respect for the writers, which would make more sense if the strike were still on - but it's not! The writers got what they wanted! And yes, I totally understand everyone did suffer for quite a few weeks, but I don't necessarily think a splash of color here and there is massively disrespectful. Or maybe I'm just massively insensitive...

Anyway, I still feel as though it's my duty as an honorary Angeleno and fashion writer to give you my top five looks of the night - although I will preface it by saying that none of them would have made my list if they'd appeared on the red carpet, say, last year:

1. Penelope Cruz in Chanel Couture

I love navy for evening, so was stoked to see so much of it on the red carpet this year. Penelope definitely did it best with this gorge gown by Chanel - I think it's a color that can look slightly dowdy on a dress that's too austere, and the draping and feather details were just enough to infuse it with a bit of glamour.

2. Anne Hathaway in Marchesa

Red is definitely Anne's color - she was absolutely glowing in this draped red Marchesa. She's got my vote for most improved from last year (remember the big black bow debacle?).

3. Renee Zellweger in Carolina Herrera

To me, Renee is the one actress who consistantly looks sophisticated and glamorous at every high-wattage event she attends. I can't remember one occasion where I was unimpressed with her look, and tonight was no different. The silver starburst pattern on her dress shrieks Old Hollywood glamour - it looks like it could be a very well-preserved vintage piece from the 40s.

4. Marion Clotillard in Jean Paul Gaultier Couture

Am pleasantly surprised at how well Gaultier's mermaid motif translated on this made-to-measure gown. Most certainly a best-actress-worthy look.

5. Heidi Klum in John Galliano

Apparently, Heidi's been getting her inspiration from Project Runway's Chris March - the exaggerated neckline of her Galliano gown is more than a little reminiscent of Chris' fine art challenge dress, as well as its inspiration earlier in the season. Not that it makes it any less chic, of course.

source

One to Watch: Esartia Jewelry

2008-02-22T16:30:00.005Z

As the cliche goes, one man's trash is another's treasure - a phrase which jewelry designer Khatia Esartia takes literally in her eponymous jewelry line.

After putting together her avant-garde leather graduate collection for the Art Institute of Chicago's fashion school, Esartia was faced with a mound of leftover leather scraps. But rather than relegate them to the Dumpster, she decided to reuse them by creating a series of rings and necklaces adorned with gems, jewels and ribbons. These pieces were such a hit with buyers that they evolved into a full-fledged jewelry line, one which is a little bit glam rock, a little bit romance, and totally eco-friendly.

Recycling has never been so chic.

Esartia available at EM & Co, 7940 W. Third St., www.emandco.com

Talking Shop: Comme Des Garcons Guerrilla Store

2008-02-22T02:22:00.003Z

It takes a lot to convince me to venture into downtown LA during rush hour, but I figured the Comme des Garcons guerrilla store would be as good an excuse as any. So I made the trek, only to find out when I got there that all the merchandise got tangled up in customs, and the store wasn't able to open Saturday as planned. Apparently, everything will be ready to go tomorrow at 12 - but I'm working at my 'real' job up through next Thursday, so won't be able to go back until at least then.

For anyone who's planning on going over the weekend, take note - it's not easy to find. The door is actually behind a black metal gate and down a small alley just to the right of Blends on 4th Street. Unfortunate dumpster smell aside, it's actually a great location in a surprisingly cool part of downtown, so I guess I don't mind too much that I'll have to make the trip again next week...

Photo from LATimes.com

Why Not Try...A Caped Crusade?

2008-02-20T17:33:00.004Z

I don't know about you, but the last few days of spring-like weather have inspired me to relegate my winter wool jacket and collection of heavy velvet blazers to the back of my closet until next November. Nevermind the fact that I'm always the chump shivering and complaining about it once the sun goes down - I'd rather have that than the unpleasant melting feeling I get when standing in direct sunlight in a heavy coat during the day. Am currently on the lookout for a cape to bridge the gap, and I have a feeling that soon enough, I won't be alone. They've been popping up all over the Milan runways (see Alberta Ferretti and Missoni, left), and they're sure to have a big showing in the upcoming Superhero show at the Costume Institute in New York.

Cozy enough to wrap up in if necessary, yet airy enough to let the fresh air in when it's warmer, the cape is basically a grown-up version of the Pashminas I was addicted to in my college days. Am still not quite sure if I want to go the minimalist route, like the one below by Cassette, or try to find something bolder, like the gorge yellow tartan or white brocade ones by Alexis Mabille. Either way, the cape will fit in perfectly with the whole 'gothic seductress' vibe that's emerging for fall - am envisioning it with a sheer blouse and leather-esque leggings.

Runway Report: Topshop Unique

2008-02-13T23:21:00.009Z

I've learned to live without my rainy-day walks along the Thames, and have even managed to perfect my own version of Brick Lane's famous curry - but the one thing I can't seem to shake about my London homesickness is my weekly visit to Topshop. I wouldn't be surprised if they've seen a serious drop in profits since I left the country in August, but if that's the case, their fall Unique collection should help to make up the difference.

It's definitely one of the best they've shown yet - full of broody, dark, near-gothic minimalism in the form of leather separates, cozy grey flannel coats, and ethnically-patterned chiffon shirt dresses. If I didn't know better, I would have pinned this collection to an established designer, like Alexander Wang or Richard Nicoll - but, lucky for most of us, the edgy looks on offer don't come with a matching designer price tag. With prices maxing out at $300, you really can't afford NOT to buy several pieces from the collection - and, if the brand's plans to open stores in the US pan out, I'll hopefully be able to do just that come autumn.

Photos courtesy of vogue.co.uk

Runway Report: LA Takes NYC, Part 3

2008-02-09T22:01:00.001Z

The last set of shows this week seemed to reference a more subdued form of glamour than the earlier ones - not as much sparkle, more practical fabrics, yet still referencing the Old Hollywood silhouettes of the '40s that seem to have been the main focus for most designers. From Jenni Kayne's little black dresses to Rami's little jade ones, the ladylike look is apparently here to stay for fall...

1. Tadeshi Shoji

If you read Us Weekly at all, Shoji's name probably sounds familiar - he's best known for his sexy, slinky red carpet wear. So it came as a bit of a surprise to me that there was hardly an evening gown in sight in his fall collection. Shirtdresses in shades of chocolate brown and grey were mixed in with canary-yellow chiffon blouses and emerald silk sheaths, items that would look more at home at a board meeting than at the Kodak. Not to say I didn't like it, however - his tailoring is always spot on, and I loved the way he played with splashes of color, like these yellow leather gloves against the grey wool dress.

2. Jenni Kayne

It's not that I have anything against Jenni Kayne - she definitely has a way with the basics, proving season after season that she can make a solid pair of pants, shift dress and fitted jacket. But for me, there's nothing that particularly stands out about her work - I mean, you can walk into any Banana Republic or Nordstrom and find equally solid pants, shift dresses and fitted jackets any day of the week. I'm probably not alone when I say that I'll choose to save a bit of money on the basics to put towards one of her contemporaries who are doing something a little more spectacular, like..

3. Rami Kashou

If Rami doesn't end up winning for this collection, I'll be more than a little shocked. I've been a huge fan of his since before he appeared on Project Runway, and this collection embodies the reason why. Every little pleat and drape of every piece appears to have been scrutinized, with a result more polished and flattering than quite a few of the New York veterans we've seen this week.

4. Sweet P

Even though there were a few promising pieces in Sweet P's collection, I was a little perplexed by the fact that there was no continuity whatsoever between all of its different elements. Jumping from a punky flannel cocktail dress to a minimalistic sheath jacket to a richly embellished silk frock was confusing, at best - had she stuck to just one of these themes, her collection would have made a much stronger statement.

Mark Your Calendar: Kristinit Charity Sample Sale

2008-02-08T20:46:00.000Z

With the Barney's Warehouse Sale on now, it's probably going to be tough for any other sample sales to get noticed - especially those more than a 5 minute drive from Santa Monica Airport. But I'd very much recommend you add the Kristinit sale at Kate to your weekend agenda. I don't just say this because you'll be able to snag designer Kristina Lenss' super-sweet and romantic blouses and jackets for 70% off, and not even because you'll have the chance to pre-order from her spring collection - no, the best part of the event for me is the fact that a percentage from each sale will be going to charity (Kitten Rescue Los Angeles and Pachama Rainforest Allience, to be exact).

If you're so cold-hearted that even saving kittens doesn't tempt you, perhaps the following pictures will - after all, nothing says Valentines Day lovin' like a ruffle and a bow, no?

Kristinit Charity Sample Sale, Kate, 515 S. Fairfax Avenue, Saturday Feb. 9th from 2-8 pm, RSVP to kristina@kristinit.com

Neighborhood Watch: Chinatown

2008-02-08T19:19:00.000Z

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I've been looking for an excuse to make a shopping guide to Chinatown, and the fact that this weekend is Chinese New Year seems like a good one. The parade is tomorrow at 2, and if it's anything like the other Chinese New Year celebrations I've been to, I'd very much recommend it. There's more reason to go besides the day-glo costumes and big paper dragons, however - like I've mentioned before, there's a lot of great shopping to in the area:

1. New High (M)art: I know I go on and on about this place, but with good reason - it's definitely one of the most inspiring shops in LA that I've found so far. It's a good place to start a tour of Chinatown, especially because there's a huge $3 parking lot across the street that's usually empty. Their current exhibition is probably their best yet - it's devoted to jewelry designers Alex & Chloe, and has been decorated to look like a sort of enchanted forest to tell their story.
New High (M)art, 741 New High Street, www.newhighmart.com

2. From here, I normally like to walk up Broadway to BJ Market. Not gonna lie, you probably won't find anything spectacular here, but it's a great place to visit for atmosphere if nothing else. Lots of stalls with dollar-store kitchenware, satin kimonos and bent sunglasses are lightened up with the sounds of Chinese soft-rock tunes from the late '80s - if you ignore all of the Texan tourists milling about, you sort of feel like you might actually be on another continent.
BJ Market, 711 N. Broadway

3. Continue walking up Broadway until you reach Ooga Booga. This hybrid boutique / gallery is a popular spot for underground magazine launches and gigs, and has recently been making the art fair rounds from Santa Monica to Miami. Along with their roster of exhibitions (currently showing is sculptor Sarah Clendening), the shop also sells a huge selection of art books & zines, original work from emerging artists, CDs & mix tapes, and clothing from Bless and Opening Ceremony, among others.
Ooga Booga, 943 N. Broadway #203, www.oogaboogastore.com

4. In the same building is a new shop that I haven't actually been to yet, but sounds like is worth checking out. It's called Flock, and according to the Chinatown website, it carries "Unique and handcrafted gifts, housewares, clothes and jewlery from artisans around the US and the world." Anyone who stops by, please do post a comment & tell us about it!
Flock Shop, 943 N. Broadway #103, www.flockshopla.com

5. Just across the road in a little alley called Jung Jing is yet another bastion of the art school set, Welcome Hunters. This is yet another of my favorite shops in the city, as it stocks lots of my favorite Euro labels like London's Kokon to Zai and Sweden's Jenny Hellstrom. Again, you'll find a monthly exhibition complete with launch party, along with DJ nights at Mountain Bar in collaboration with Lion's Den (see below).
Welcome Hunters, 454b Jung Jing Road, www.welcomehuntersla.com

6. Walk around the plaza to Gin Lin Way, where you'll find Realm - a housewares store with a distinctly modern Asian twist. This is the place to come if you're looking for a great teapot, as they have hundreds, along with those cool square plates and a few slightly incongruous candleholders that look as though they're made from wood.
Realm, 425 Gin Ling Way, www.realmhome.com

7. Next door to Realm is Munky King - basically the first 'adult toy' shop in California. No, we're not talking about THAT kind of toy, but of collectible figurines, some of which are designed by quite famous artists and most of which are limited edition. There will be a DJ spinning throughout the day tomorrow, so is worth stopping by for that even if you're not into the toy thing.
Munky King, 441 Gin Ling Way, www.munkyking.com

8. Over and up North Hill street is Super Home Mart, a must-visit for anyone who likes herbal tea or Pier One. For the tea drinkers, there are economy-sized boxes of every version of green tea imaginable, including my beloved jasmine-infused variety; for Pier One shoppers, the same ethnic-inspired furnishings at about a quarter of the price. A warning: it's easy to lose a few hours browsing around this massive space, so plan accordingly.
Super Home Mart, 988 N. Hill Street

9. The biggest concentration of galleries in the neighborhood is on Chung King Road, a little side street off of North Hill. You'll find everything from the big players, like Peres Projects and Mary Goldman, to more experimental upstarts like Telic Exchange and Fringe Exhibitions. Definitely worth a little browse, as this street is a great cross-section of the LA art scene.

10. On your way back down North Hill, stop into Flux, a gallery devoted to contemporary ceramics and pottery. Is a good place to pick up a vase for the flowers you'll find at the Farmer's Market, further down the road.
Flux, 943 N. Hill Street, www.fluxgalleryla.com
Farmer's Market, 727 N. Hill Street

11. Finally, cut across Ord street and back up New High until you reach Lion's Den. Fulfilling every trendy neighborhood's need for a streetwear shop, this one is full of colorblocked New Balances, Penfield flannels and Foreign Family tees.
Lion's Den, 711 New High Street, www.lionsden.la

LA Takes NYC: Part 2

2008-02-08T01:29:00.001Z

The second installment of my roundup of LA designers showing in New York this week, starting with:

1. Jovovich-Hawk

I normally view fashion lines designed by models with extreme skepticism - after all, we all know that Kate Moss has probably not picked up a pencil and sketchbook since starting her Topshop line. But for some reason, I feel like Jovovich-Hawk has a bit more credibility, probably because it doesn't have the backing of a big brand behind it - ergo, it probably isn't a publicity stunt so much as something borne out of true passion. It looks like Carmen and Milla were doing their research for this collection at an Echo Park dive bar, which, again, would normally annoy me - but, again, it doesn't for some reason. Black and white jailhouse stripes, neon pink silk and prom dress sleeves aside, the collection really brings out the edgier side of LA that most people miss. Not to mention that they've created a few of the winter maxidresses that have been popping up on runways, another trend which I love.

2. Twelfth Street by Cynthia Vincent

This is one of my favorite every-day labels - I always know I'll find a piece from Twelfth Street that's a little bit different, yet totally classic and easy to wear. For Fall 08, Vincent gave her presentation a circus theme and filled her collection with the season's standout trends - feathers, bold patterns, and sparkle. A fun and whimsical interpretation of fall's emerging mood of excess.

3. Halston

I've been looking forward to this collection more than any other this year - so maybe I was setting myself up for disappointment. Because disappointed I definitely was, with this overly literal translation of the label's past. Rather than updating and modernising the label's signature pantsuits and trapeze dresses, it looked like designer Marco Zanini simply took a few pieces out of the archives, took a steamer to them and sent them out on the runway. The fabrics looked like cheap polyester, the colors were straight out of a Brady Bunch rerun, and the silhouettes seemed more frumpy than fabulous. I've always associated Halston with glamour and excess, and this dull homage to the most embarassing aspects of 70s fashion was the complete opposite. I mean, just look at this picture - an unfortunate periwinkle jumpsuit more suitable for RuPaul than Nicole Ritchie

4. Rodarte

I mentioned in a recent post that I think of Valentino as being outside the realms of fashion, and I sort of think of Rodarte in the same way. Their gowns are probably not going to spark any Forever 21 knockoffs or 'Who Wore it Better' articles in Us Weekly, but that's the best thing about them - it's more about art than fashion. This collection just reaffirmed the label's status as one of my all-time favorites, rendering me awestruck at the way they've managed to make humble fabric look like something altogether otherworldly. The one word that kept coming to my mind is 'gossamer,' a word that I don't really know the exact definition of, but which I associate with fairy tales and imaginary princesses. This transcendent, dreamlike collection was definitely the stuff of fairy tales, so fragile that it looked like it could go up any second in a puff of smoke-colored chiffon.

5. Koi Suwannagate

This show marked Koi's debut in New York, her first since winning the CFDA / Vogue fashion fund last year. She's a knitwear designer before anything else, creating art out of cashmere, and this collection didn't disappoint. Loved the voluminous capes, which looked like upside-down tulips and looked just as chic with a little black dress as with a pair of slouchy trousers.

6. Monique Lhuillier

She's best known for her bridal gowns, but this collection proved that Lhuillier is capable of so much more. It perfectly encapsulated the season's mood of unbridled decadence, with slinky gold cocktail dresses, rich fur trimmings on film noir skirtsuits, and jewel-encrusted boleros. My favorite? This gold sequined column draped in light white fabric, the collection's closest approximation of a wedding gown - but again, one that's the epitome of luxe.

Bebe Does Chanel?

2008-02-03T20:52:00.000Z

Things definitely move quickly in the fashion world, but am not quite sure how Bebe managed to pull this one off. Walking down Third Street in Santa Monica yesterday, I spotted the above black draped number in the store window - and immediately thought of the draped minis Karl Lagerfeld showed at Chanel couture not even two weeks ago. Am not quite sure if Bebe was sending spies to Karl's Parisian atelier, if it's just a fortuitous coincidince, or if their design and logistics teams are just THAT good. But let's be honest, it really doesn't matter when we can get fauxture for under a hundred bucks...

Tie Waist Gathered Skirt, $98, www.bebe.com

Runway Report: LA Takes NYC, Part 1

2008-02-03T20:04:00.000Z

Anyone who has any doubts about the West Coast style scene need look no further than the past few days of NY Fashion Week coverage. A good percentage of the weekend's most buzz-heavy shows have had some sort of westside connection - Band of Outsiders, Juan Carlos Obando, and Katy Rodruiguez, to name just a few who have already shown. And the best is yet to come with the Halston and Herve Leger collections launching soon, masterminded by LA locals Harvey Weinstein / Rachel Zoe and Max Azria, respectively.

Because of this, I've decided to devote my NY fashion week postage to the West Coast designers who are taking on the Bryant Park tents - some for the first time, others quickly becoming veterans, but all challenging the notion that LA fashion is all about jersey and jeans.

From this weekend's shows...

1. Juan Carlos Obando

This is the LA-based designer's first time showing in New York, and he's definitely proven he has what it takes to go up against the big boys. He's been a local celebrity for years, since he's the closest thing LA has to a bona fide couturier, and it's easy to see why - his architectural tailoring and attention to detail are impeccable, and he seems to instinctively know how to make a woman's body look its best. According to the LA Times, the inspiration for his collection was the comic book superhero - a concept that could look costumey, but one that he's subtly interpreted to look nothing but classy.

2. Katy Rodriguez

She rose to fame via Ressurection vintage, one of the Hollywood set's go-to venues for one-of-a-kind red carpet attire. Apparently, being immersed in such a catalog of fashion history rubbed off on Rodriguez, as her second collection had a totally modern, yet 80s nostalgic feel. Slinky, black cocktail dresses and tiny skirt suits were updated with futuristic pointed shoulders, while the trapeze dress, quickly becoming the mascot for naughties fashion, was taken back in time with black and bright purple colorblocking that reminded me of my third-grade collection of spandex bike shorts. Definitely one we'll be seeing on many a tabloid page in the future.

3. Boy by Band of Outsiders

Proof that LA designers can draw from influences outside of palm trees and sunshine - Scott Sternberg's fall collection for Boy. The inspiration for this one came straight from the Scottish highlands, by way of a rustic log cabin - lots of woolen plaids, furry trapper hats and flannel suits, sexed up with little fitted oxford shirts and low-slung trousers. It's clear that the designer has left the city he once called home, both physically and aesthetically - but if the results continue to look like this, am sure his West Coast fans will be able to cope.

All photos & more from style.com

Talking Shop: One Door Closes, Another Opens

2008-01-28T18:05:00.000Z

WWD has reported today that Kaviar & Kind, one of Hollywood's best-known shopping destinations, is closing after four years of business.

According to the story, the shop's owners, Katherine Azarmi Rose and Sunrise Ruffalo, are "ending their business relationship," which explains why one of LA's seemingly most successful boutiques is shutting its doors so suddenly. Fans of the shop shouldn't break their bank accounts on last-minute impulse buys just yet, however - Rose has won custody of the duo's retail space, and is planning to open a new shop in its place. Her new endeavour, Roseark, is set to be a "lifestyle boutique with an emphasis on jewelry," ensuring that her stretch of Sunset will continue to sparkle even after K&K shuts its doors.

Talking Shop: Pop in to a Pop-Up

2008-01-26T20:33:00.000Z

Once considered edgy and subversive, the pop-up shop has kind of become fashion's equivilent of absinthe. Even the most mainstream of brands are getting in on the act, watering the concept down beyond all recognition - think the Target pop-up on Melrose a few years back & you'll see my point.

When it comes to temporary retail, it takes a lot to grab my attention - either a great concept a la New High (M)art or a serious financial incentive, like the recent The Way We Wore discount outpost. So it's kind of surprising that two pop-up announcements have made me take notice this week.

First, there was the news that Comme des Garcons will be bringing their pop-up concept to downtown LA on February 16. CDG were basically the pioneers of the guerrilla retail movement, which is why I'm so excited to finally be able to check out one of their shops - it's set to be open for an entire year, so I imagine they've got more planned than just flogging t-shirts.

Then, I got an e-mail yesterday announcing that Nina & Lola, one of my favorite online boutiques, will be opening their first ever popup next Thursday & Friday in London. I obviously won't be able to attend this one, but would definitely recommend it to anyone in the area. As much as I love the shop, a lot of the items I'm interested in are the sort of things you'd need to really see and try on in person, as they're a bit more 'directional' than the normal pieces you'd normally buy online. Not to mention prices at up to 70% off...

Comme des Garcons Guerrilla Boutique, 125 West 4th Street, Los Angeles

Nina & Lola Pop-Up Sale, Grosvenor Chapel Mayfair, Garden RoomSouth Audley Street/Mount Street Garden W1

Runway Report: Paris Couture (Part 2)

2008-01-26T19:53:00.000Z

Sorry for the delay, am sure you were all hovering in nail-biting suspense to read the second half of my couture report...so here they are, the final set of lessons to be learned from last week's Parisian festivities:

Elie Saab's Bolero: The New Accessory Craze?

Now that you can find pashminas on every street corner and Kate Moss-style vests in midwestern shopping malls, a new 'It' accessory is due - and I think that the bolero, like the ones all over Elie Saab's runways, are a brilliant option. I'm not a huge fan of boleros over dresses, as I think they're a tad Golden Girls, but would totally wear one over a thin cotton tank and jeans - the more sequins, beads and sparkles, the better.

John Paul Gaultier's Mermaids: The New Pirates?

Ever since Johnny Depp tied that stripey bandanna around his head and feigned that weird accent, it seems like the world's gone pirate mad. I mean, even my mom dressed up like Jack Sparrow for Halloween last year - and you know when a middle-aged suburban housewife is getting into a trend, it's reached cult proportions. After flipping through the photos from Gaultier's show, I have a feeling that mermaids are going to be the next big thing - his fishtail hems, scaley prints and boho-meets-barge netting are the perfect mix of theatrical and cool. And with The Little Mermaid now firmly established on Broadway, my hunch is that it's only a matter of time before costume shop owners start bulk-ordering faux fish tails and seashell bras...

Givenchy's Gothic Romance: The New Season's Mood?

The spring runways were all about sweetness and light, with enough rosettes, chiffon, floral fabrics and ruffles to give even the girliest of girls a toothache. Ricardo Tisci's collection for Givenchy seems to be the natural progression of the trend into the darker days of fall, with ruffles rendered in black silk and flouncy A-line skirts crafted out of what looks like black leather. It's like the romantic girl-next-door from spring switched high schools and fell in with a bad crowd, dying her hair black and filling her iPod with Evanescence - and I have a feeling we'll be seeing a lot more of this on the runways starting next week.

Valentino Red: The New Classic

I've always thought of Valentino as being outside the realms of fashion - his aesthetic hasn't really changed over the course of all these years, he basically ignores the fashion world's constantly evolving trends and fads, yet his work still manages to look totally fresh each and every time. His final collection was more of the same - little pastel skirt suits, high-luxe ball gowns, and, naturally, a procession of perfect red dresses to close the show. Now that he's retired, I think it's safe to say that those perfect red dresses will be his lasting legacy, taking their place alongside Coco Chanel's tweed jackets and Yves Saint Lauren's Le Smoking as his most notable signature. I'm really interested to see how Alessandra Fachinetti interprets the label when she shows her first collection for the house in a few weeks...

source

Runway Report: Paris Couture (Part 1)

2008-01-23T17:49:00.000Z

One of my main goals in life is to make it to the Paris couture shows one day - even in photos, the artistry of couture pieces is enough to render me awestruck, so I can only imagine what the effect would be in person.

Even though most of us won't be forking over thousands of dollars for a feathered and fringed gown any time soon, we can still take away some ideas from the couture shows - after all, couture is kind of a lab for generating ideas that will one day be modified for ready-to-wear, so those who pay attention to the trends now are sure to be ahead of the curve before they hit Forever 21.

The main lessons from the first two days of the show:

The New Skirt Shape: Armani Prive's "Crater"

First we had the bubble, then the tulip - and then, probably sensing an impending weird-skirt-shape-fatigue among the masses, designers returned to a more traditional pencil for winter and full a-line for spring. But if Giorgio Armani has his way, we might be back in the throes of sartorial confusion come fall, as his couture presentation was filled with "Crater" skirts. I'm not a designer, so am not sure how easy the shape would be to recreate for RTW, but I, for one, am all for it - is an interesting interpretation of the dropped waist look for day.

The New Proportion: Chanel's Micro-minis & Little Girl Shoes

The mini-and-flats combination isn't exactly new, but am very much digging the combination of sexy draped minis with kindergarden-style flat mary janes and white tights - again, great way of making a mini appropriate for day, and a really refreshing means of styling the traditional Chanel tweed jacket, which tends to look grandmotherly when worn on its own.

The New Decadance: Christian Lacroix's Grey Gardens Print Mixing

The fashion world is obsessed with the eccentric ladies of Grey Gardens, with just about every major glossy running a spread based on the theme in their fall issues. Lacroix's couture show immediately brought those spreads to mind, but with a luxurious twist, with models parading down the runways in layer upon layer of garments in every color, shape and print. Sailor stripes juxtaposed with Scottish tartans, leopard prints worn over painterly brushstrokes - the end effect was one of extreme decadence bordering on mild insanity, a woman who has seen and done it all and is reliving the memories of her rich life through fashion.

The Not-So-New Color: Dior's Jewel Box Brights

Again, jewel tones are nothing new, but John Galliano's show for Dior just reinforced why we love them so - despite the gorgeous hand-painted detailing on his gowns, it's the vibrant amethyst, ruby and sapphire color scheme that catches your eye - and your breath - before anything else.

The New Focal Point: Anne Valerie Hash's Shoulders

Yeah, I know, this one's not so new either (guess that says something about this year's shows, no?), but I do love a big shoulder, and Hash's collection at least sort of moves the trend forward - from volume to geometric, architectural structure.

source

Talking Shop: Remix Vintage

2008-01-18T15:34:00.000Z

As much as I love the look of vintage shoes, I can't quite bring myself to ever buy a pair - or even try anything on. There's just something about the thought of slipping my feet into shoes that countless other unknown feet have been in that grosses me out just a little.

So that's why I'm so excited to have discovered Remix Vintage Shoes. The 15-year-old label takes its inspiration from vintage shoes from the early 20th century, recreating them to the tiniest detail in brand new leather. The only thing that's really modernized is the color, with most styles crafted in at least two shades of leather in every tone imaginable.

My favorites are the range of pumps from the '20s and '30s - especially the Deco (below left), Savoy (middle), and Grammercy. Am also loving the Babyjane (above), a wingtipped mary jane inspired by a style from the '40s. Sure, there are a lot of imitation vintage shoes out there, but nothing that's recreated so faithfully to the original - the only thing missing is that unpleasant vintage shoe smell.

Remix Vintage, 7605 1/2 Beverly Boulevard, http://www.remixvintageshoes.com/

Mark Your Calendar: Lisa Kline Blowout Sale

2008-01-17T21:10:00.000Z

I normally think Lisa Kline is kind of gross, both because of its tacky mudflap girl logo and its incessant blasting of e-mails filled with pap shots of Z-listers in their clothes. There's obviously a huge audience for that kind of thing, as they're one of the most well-known boutiques in the country, and I totally respect them for it - but it's simply not my bag. However, their most recent e-mail might have persuaded even me to stop by for a few minutes...

For the next ten days, Robertson's finest will be in the final stretch of its New Year sale, with 50-75% markdowns. What really caught my eye, however, was the mention of $10, $15 and $20 bins. Sure, they'll probably be filled with lightning bolt necklaces and bad remakes of vintage band tees - but this writer is working on all long-lead assignments at the mo, and probably won't be getting any checks for the shopping fund for at least the next two months. Desperate times, and all that...

Lisa Kline, 140 S. Robertson, Sale ends January 27th

Fash Bash: The Girls of Ghettogloss, Rodan v. Griffith Trunk Show

2008-01-17T20:06:00.000Z

Even if the rest of the world is taking it easy for January, there's apparently no rest for the fashion crowd - case in point, this week's two-for-one installment of Fash Bash.

First is tonight at Ghettogloss, Silverlake's first and most famous gallery and boutique in one. They're launching their new exhibition, entitled 'Girly Group Show' and featuring just about every young female artist in LA worth knowing. According to the invite, you can expect to see "Butterfly, Shana Nys Dambrot, Danyi Deats-Barrett, Yami Duarte, Fiora, Flopi, Amy Frederick, Jessica Lee Garrison, Niki Hass, Anabel Lee, Sue-ling Hyde, Hannah Hurrle, Noel Ill, Jenny Mollen, Rebecca Paul, Vanessa Prager, Karyn Raz, Annie Sperling, Alexis Walker, Kim West, Jeanne Yern, and many more." If that's not enough to convince you, perhaps the promise of champagne and penguin pinatas will be more tempting...

And then! Rodan v. Griffith will be holding a trunk show / sample sale / cocktail party next Thursday (24th), from 7-11. They're going to be featuring three designers in particular - Lorun (one of my favorite LA labels), Quail (which I had never heard of, but is actually really rad), and A.T. Moreno jewelry (which I can't find any info on, so more reason to stop by the event). There will also be music by Mighty Might, so basically your standard good night out on W. Third, with shopping.

Admittedly, shopping under the influence might be a bit risky at this time of year, when we're all kind of broke - but I can honestly say that some of my best purchases have been made after a few martinis, so am definitely not going to let that excuse stand in my way...

Ghettogloss, 2380 Glendale Blvd, Silverlake; Rodan v. Griffith, 8207 W. 3rd Street, Los Angeles

l.-r.: Quail SS08, Lorun AW07 from revolveclothing.com

Best of the West: From Lounge to Lunch

2008-01-16T03:54:00.000Z

So we may not have any hundred-year-old couture houses or a fashion week that people actually go to, but there are certain things that LA does better than anyone else when it comes to fashion. Basics and lounge clothes are the obvious ones, but there are definitely others, which is why I've decided to start this new category of posts called...wait for it...'Best of the West'. It'll basically just be a regular, themed top 3 list of West Coast brands that deserve a bit of recognition for what they're doing, whether it's something traditionally 'California' or not.

So, to start, I thought I'd go with something we've probably been doing a lot of lately - nothing. It's new year and, for the next few weeks, at least, everyone I know has taken a vow of sobriety and relaxation - which naturally brings with it lots of PJ-wearing. LA is obviously known for its laid-back lougewear, so check out my picks for the top 3 West Coast brands that work equally well for bed or brunch, if you're so inclined - after all, no one can stay in ALL the time:

1. T Luxury

If you're more yoga-in-Malibu than kickboxing-at-Equinox, T Luxury is probably the brand for you. The brainchild of Laguna couple Joe and Jacqueline Krafka, the line is full of supple and soft loungewear basics in blends of Supima cotton, silk and cashmere. Its stretchy simplicity makes it ideal for relaxing in child's pose.

Available at www.bluefly.com

2. Seaton

Not sure about you, but I often wish I could wear sweats all day, every day - and the thing is, I probably would if they weren't so lumpy and unattractive. So it's probably a good thing I haven't spent any time in shops that sell Seaton. Yet another husband-and-wife line (interesting...), Seaton is a line of perfectly fitted-and-faded fleece hoodies and drawstring pants, going perfectly from DVD marathons to marathon training when the January funk has passed.

Available from www.revolveclothing.com

3. Saint Grace
A favorite of the Hollywood set, and with good reason - with fabrics like Egyptian cotton, wool jersey and luxe cashmere, this line was made for only the most pampered of princesses. Launched by designer Quinn Thompson in 2001, Saint Grace is full of lounge-worthy basics with a slinky 70s twist - think ultra wide-legged pants and retro stripey sweatshirts.

Available from http://www.saintgrace.com/

Talking Shop: Foley & Corrina Sale

2008-01-15T05:31:00.000Z

To Melrose, where I came across a fantastic surprise whilst sale shopping. I didn't have much luck at the sales I came specifically to see - The Way We Wore popup shop (underwhelming), Madison (still too pricey for my pathetic budget), Ron Herman (disappointing), and Creatures of Comfort (eh).

HOWEVER, while walking back to my car, I stumbled upon the new Foley & Corrina outpost, which opened up about a month ago, but which I still haven't made it down to see. I've been to their first shop in New York, and although their clothes are stunning, they're not really my thing - lots of sequins and beading and draped stretchy material. Their bags, on the other hand, are basically the stuff of my dreams - big, rich, slouchy leather creations that can fit all of the random junk I tote along with me every day, but still manage to look impeccable.

And this is where the fantastic surprise comes in - just about every bag in the place was 50% off. They're reasonably priced as it is, so with the additional discount, we're talking less than $300. And if you've ever seen their bags before, you'll know that you're getting a LOT of bag for that $300. I spent about a half hour 'trying on' various ones, with the help of the totally sweet salesgirl (is kind of easy to waste a lot of time there - cozy boudoir-style interior makes it hard to leave), but I decided to sleep on it in the end. But instead of deciding against the purchase, which I was kind of hoping I'd do, I'm now contemplating a bulk buy in the morning. After all, a girl can never have too many deeply-discounted handbags...

Anna Corinna bags available at Foley & Corinna, 8117 Melrose, 323.944.0169

One to Watch: Ankh

2008-01-12T06:52:00.000Z

There's nothing I love more than a good chain. Deliciously tacky to the point of being cool (well, in my mind, at least), the chain is my go-to embellishment to add chutzpah to any boring outfit. Chain handle bags, chain necklaces, bracelets - short of chain belts, I have and proudly wear just about every chain-derived accessory possible. Usually more than one at a time.

Which is why I was so excited to meet the lovely Racquel Honore at a shopping event back in December. She's the designer behind Ankh, an LA jewelry line that is based around - you guessed it, chains. But unlike the chunky variety you might be thinking of, she works only with the most delicate kinds, draping them and layering them and dipping them in fun paint colors to form necklaces, chopping them up and dangling pieces icicle-style from hoops to form earrings. They definitely have a club kid feel, but in the best possible way - all you need is one of her pieces to dress up a big white tee, blazer and jeans. She's also totally happy to make bespoke pieces in whatever color or style you want.

The only thing I love more than a chain is a great piece of abstract expressionist art, and lucky for me, Ankh has that covered too. The limited-edition 'Pollock' collection is made of pieces from a vintage Jackson Pollock puzzle from the 1950s - named the world's most difficult puzzle at the time by puzzle experts. Pieces of the puzzle have been made into charm bracelets and necklaces and earrings, in some cases wrapped in wire - am not sure why the wire, but it definitely does more good than harm.

www.umbrellanoir.com

Say Whaaat?: $20,000 Handbags

2008-01-12T05:57:00.000Z

Talk about those with more money than sense - WWD has reported that there's been enough interest in Burberry's line of 'superluxe' bags to warrent waiting lists and an international trunk show series. The line, which includes styles like the Warrior, the Knight, the Manor and the Ashcombe clutch, is being rendered in materials like python and aligator - which apparently justifies price tags that rival those of most small cars. At least they're throwing in engraved nameplates and quilted leather boxes to sweeten the deal...

Burberry's certainly not the first label to foray into the superluxe arena - any exotic-skinned bag is sure to be massively expensive, and it's no secret that the aligator and croc versions of the Birkin, the B, and Coach's Bleeker all start at $20,000 a pop. What's shocking to me is that there seems to be such a demand for them. I mean, I'd always figured that they were just showpieces that labels released more for marketing purposes than anything else, with maybe a handful of buyers around the world - kind of like the $160 sandwich launched by Selfridges a few years back. But waiting lists and trunk shows? If this is, in fact, a publicity stunt, these PRs obviously have way too much time on their hands...

Is it just me, or would anyone else absolutely refuse to pay $20,000 for a bag - even if they had all the money in the world?

Talking Shop: Sample Sales for the Lazy

2008-01-06T22:23:00.000Z

When I lived in London, I lived for sample sales. Most of them were less than a 20 minute tube ride from home, and I was always able to be one of the first through the doors to catch the best bargains before they went.

Since arriving in LA, however, it's a different story. In a city where it takes no less than an hour to get anywhere, where trying to find parking is on par with the quest for the holy grail, and where the sale shoppers can actually be bothered to get up at 6am to be first in line for doors opening at 8, I've found myself very much behind the curve - and, on the few instances I've actually ventured out to a sale here, have been left to pick through piles of size twelves and seasons-old stock.

Which is why I'm so! so! so! excited to have learned about ideeli.com. It's basically an online sample sale filled with the sort of stuff these LA shoppers wake up at 6am for - Pade Vavra bangles, Baccarat pendants, bags by Celine and YSL and Oscar de la Renta and more. Prices are typically over 50% off the original, and sale times are kept secret until the last minute, when all members receive an e-mail saying a sale for a particular item is about to start. You can sign up for text message alerts too, so that you're ready to buy on your Blackberry as soon as the items go up for sale - no matter wherever you are. With deals like the ones below, I might just become a regular sample shopper again after all...

Pade Vavra Confetti Bracelet, was $700, now $295

YSL Vincennes Hobo, Was $1195, now $495 (!!!!!)

Kotur D'Abo Clutch, was $435, now $189

Where T-bars meet T-squares

2008-01-05T20:19:00.000Z

If you think the only link between fashion and architecture is that cool Prada store on Rodeo, you're very much mistaken. The history of fashion is filled with designers who trained as architects before swapping classic columns for column dresses - think Alaia and Pierre Cardin for starters.

It's a little bit more rare today, with almost every art school offering courses in fashion design, for designers to come from the architecture world, but the two disciplines are still very much influenced by each other. Case in point - an upcoming exhibition at Somerset House in London called 'Skin & Bones: Parallel Practices in Fashion and Architecture.' It's set to compare the work of designers like Alexander McQueen, Martin Margiela, Hussein Chalayan - basically, every designer you can think of who has a way with a sharp line and an eye for innovative structuring - with architects like Zaha Hadid and Frank Ghery, highlighting the, well, parallels between the two.

Am not sure if it's going to include designers who actually did train as architects, as there are certainly several of them working today, including some of my favorites. I have a hunch that the following probably won't be included, so I will enlighten you all with a list of them here instead:

1. Nicola Finetti

Whoever said Australian fashion is all about unstructured sundresses and empire waists has clearly never seen the work of Nicola Finetti. After studying architecture in Rome and a brief stint in Argentina, Finetti moved to Australia to pursue womenswear design, launching his own label in 1995. His work is all about contrast and contradiction -his collections are always very feminine , consisting pretty much solely of skirts and dresses, yet are still very sleek at the same time. Also, despite the fact that each dress has a very definite structure (a result of that architecture training, I imagine), they still manage to look totally comfortable - I could picture myself wearing any of the ones below to a beach barbie. He also has a way with pattern repitition, like on the skirt above, that reminds me of a frieze on a building:

Photos courtesy of Vogue.com.au ; http://www.nicolafinetti.com/

2. Max Kibardin

In the tradition of Alaia before him, Max Kibardin has mastered the art of creating shoes that manage to be both delicately sexy, yet sculptural at the same time. The ex-model's shoes have all the qualities of a great work of contemporary architecture - they're both sturdy and light, have gorgeously curved arches, and a look that's very distinctly their own. And the color! I challenge anyone to look at a pair of Kibardin's shoes and not start squealing like a kid who's just got her first pony (on the inside, at least). He studied architecture in Russia before moving to Milan for fashion, which sort of explains the jewel tones and ornamentation:

www.maxkibardin.com

3. Ninaki

Ninaki rings remind me of the Disney Center in downtown LA, and not just because they're big and shiny- they're the kind of thing that you either love or hate, depending on your definition of beauty. I love them, for all of their soaring, steely, imposing, take-your-breath-away magnitude. Designed by SciArc graduate Ninaki Priddy, the collection is a mix of the organic and macabre. The organic is quite clear, with the rings taking on polished, yet strangely amoeba-esque shapes. The noir side, too, is evident, especially in the names she's given the pieces - think Cruella and Contessa:

www.ninaki.com

One to Watch: Dorothy Lee

2008-01-03T06:31:00.000Z

LA fashion is often deemed "wearable," which is basically a nice way of saying boring. True, t-shirt dresses and $300 jeans are hardly the stuff of six-page Vogue spreads, but most of us will agree there's something to be said for simple, yet flattering pieces that don't require a lot of effort. I, for one, can't say I miss the rigors of London's competitive dressing, where artful layers and ironic accessorizing are as essential to an ensemble as underwear (well, it's essential outside of Hollywood, anyway).

That said, Dorothy Lee's eponymous label is wearable in the best possible way. Yes, the Angeleno's Spring collection involves a lot of jersey tank dresses in neutral colors - but the jersey she uses is so soft, so luxuriously light that it looks like it was hand-woven by cherubs. Yes, she appears to have a penchant for camp shorts, but by cutting a six-inch horizontal slit where cuffs should be, she lends them a sinister, subversive sexiness, making them look as though they were carelessly torn in some sort of illicit tryst. And yes, the line's tops and jackets are mostly of the loose-fitting babydoll variety, but they incorporate the most subtle of draping and pleating and ruffling, propelling them just far enough over the line between classic and interesting. Is little wonder, really, considering Lee's background - anyone who's descended from an architect and interior designer, trained at Central Saint Martins and Parsons, and an alum of Peter Som and Chanel is bound to know how to make less look like so much more.

If the girl who's a fan of this deliciously wearable line is boring - well, I guess I'm Lauren Conrad.

All images from Dorothy Lee's Spring 2008 Lookbook. Collection available at www.revolveclothing.com

Fash Bash: Maude Carrin Loves Chase

2008-01-01T04:54:00.000Z

I first became acquainted with the work of muralist Chase when it was being exhibited at Xin on Melrose. Since then, I've noticed it absolutely everywhere - on the walls in Venice I pass by on my way to work each day; at a Gen Art sample sale; even next to the men's skivvies at Bloomies in the Beverly Center.

Like a modern-day Andy Warhol, Chase has become a sort of artist-laureate for the city's cozy fashart scene - albeit one with a distinctively shiny, happy, West Coast-appropriate message of self-awareness and hope. His next appearance on the retail circuit is launching this Friday at Maude Carrin (7427 Beverly Blvd), where he will be customizing...well, anything you want him to.

Attached to the launch invite was the picture below - it's of the artist's latest mural in Venice, which has immortalized his god-daughter. The cynical New Yorker in me wants to make a snide comment about joining hands and singing Kumbaya, but I just can't - his work makes me smile, which is more than I can say for most of the art I've seen lately.

Why Not Try...making New Year's resolutions for your wardrobe?

2007-12-31T18:21:00.000Z

After about five consecutive years of failed New Years resolutions, always the same ones - join a gym, write more letters, drink less coffee - I'm done. After all, life is far too short to kid ourselves into ridding ourselves out of all our guilty pleasures, no?

I do think there's something to the whole concept of resolutions, however - the idea of starting anew, taking steps towards becoming a better version of oneself, and so on. So rather than boycott the tradition altogether, I've decided to apply it to the one area of my life where I always welcome change and growth - my closet.

Everyone has some bad habits to break when it comes to fashion, and there's no better time than the new year sales to put these sartorial missteps to right. And an added bonus of focusing resolutions on something as frivolous as fashion? At this time next year, I won't be feeling guilty for not quite managing to kick that Marlboro Light habit...

I Resolve...To Think in Technicolor
One of the consequences of living in London and New York for most of my life is that 97% of my wardrobe is in some shade of black or grey. I've always talked myself into thinking these non-colors give me a sense of je ne sais quoi, but seeing all of the jewel-tones and primary colors in stores now has sort of made me feel like the only one dressed in normal clothes at a costume party. So this year, I resolve to only buy black clothes if I also buy something in pop-art color - taxicab yellow, Barney-the-dinosaur purple, sapphire blue - even if it's just a pair of tights or shoes...

Spijkers & Spijkers Silk Pencil Skirt, http://www.ninaandlola.com/

Chris Benz 'Jenna' Top, http://www.netaporter.com/

Karta Jewel Inset Dress, http://www.intermixonline.com/

I Resolve...To Wear Mostly Dresses
I no longer live in a city that is cold and rainy ten months out of the year - therefore, I have no excuse not to kick my skinny jeans and knee-high Frye boot addiction. I mean, really, dresses are so much easier and have so much more character - and they give me yet another excuse to feed my hosiery addiction. Am thinking these are a good place to start (and hey, I didn't say I was giving up black cold-turkey...)

Diane von Furstenburg 'Rhythm Mondrian' Dress, http://www.intermixonline.com/

Hannah Marshall 'Batwing' Dress, http://www.ninaandlola.com/

Twinkle 'Girl's Night' Dress - http://www.elleh.com/

I Resolve...To Only Shop Independents

Shopping at Forever 21 or H&M in a city like LA, where there are thousands of independent boutiques full of personality and charm, is kind of like going to Pastis and ordering toast. I guess you could, but doesn't it defeat the purpose? Enough said.

The Sales, Continued...

2007-12-31T18:06:00.000Z

Am sure that by now, you've all got my recent guide to the post-Christmas sales taped to your dashboards, addresses dutifully plugged into your TomToms and bank accounts sufficiently depleted. In case you still have a nagging balance to use up on your Visa, I've got another tip for you, perhaps the most exciting one yet.

My all-time favorite midtown shopping destination, Scout (7920 W. Third), has announced a sale on everything in store. There are discounts of up to 50% to be had on pieces from Sonya Rykiel, Arielle de Pinto, Clu and more - and, best of all, if you're a member of their mailing list you're eligible for an extra 10% off.

If you're still undecided as to whether you REALLY need yet another stripey Sonya top, consider this: JC Report has, er, reported that due to the weak dollar, European labels may be hard to come by in the new year, as many retailers report they're cutting back on brands that deal in Euros and Pounds. I don't know about you, but I know what I'll be doing New Year's Eve...

Multiplicity

2007-12-27T04:16:00.000Z

In the middle of packing to visit my parents for a few days, I came to a realization - nothing I was throwing in my suitcase had seen the outside of my closet since I moved to LA. Button-down shirts, cashmere v-necks, my once trusty Paper Denims, all staples of a preppified Northeastern wardrobe that don't quite fit in with the look I've gravitated towards out West.

The more I thought about it, I think I'm a victim of multiple personality disorder when it comes to fashion. Not only do my home clothes work in LA, but neither do most of my London clothes, and vice versa. For instance, this is a typically dull outfit for me when in upstate NY:

And this is one for LA:

And this overaccessorized, all-black ensemble is something I would have worn in London:

Is it just me, or does anyone else not really have a signature personal style, but different styles for different aspects of their lives? I'm not talking about beachy clothes that you only take on vacation, or chunky reindeer sweaters that you reserve for ski trips, but completely separate wardrobes, and maybe even different attitudes to match? I guess I might be a bit more schizophrenic than most, since I've lived all over the place and am jetting back and forth every few months. Either way, am thinking that Shopaholism may have met its match - perhaps I should become the first therapist in sartorial addictions...

Talking Shop: Post Christmas Sales

2007-12-26T19:18:00.001Z

Right, so I hope my four readers have avoided breakdowns without me over the past few weeks...have working on a big story for Ocean magazine and haven't had much time to think about anything else.

With that said, I hope everyone had a relatively pain-free holiday and that you're ready for what I think is the most exciting thing about this time of year - the post-Christmas sales. I've thrown together an area-by-area guide to markdowns across L.A., so you can plan your strategies for spending those $20's Grandma put in your Christmas card - or, more likely, exchanging that unfortunate pastel pink cardigan from Mom...

Melrose Ave.:
-Creatures of Comfort (7971) : 30-50% off labels like Alexandre Herchcovitch, APC and Karen Walker
-Violet Grace (7021): 40% off labels like Chaiken, Rebecca Taylor, Walter
-Ron Herman (8100):
-Madison (8115): Up to 50% off labels like Matthew Williamson, Diane von Furstenburg, and Anna Sui
-Bird (8428): Up to 75% off clothes and jewelry from Lara Bohinc and Molly Jackson - Best for Jewelry Shopping
-Betsy Johnson (8050): Up to 50% off frothy party dresses

West 3rd. Street:
-Satine (8117): 30-50% off labels like Jenni Kayne, Vanessa Bruno, 3.1 Philip Lim, Thakoon & VPL - Best for New Year's Eve dress shopping
-Hillary Rush (8222 ): 25% off everything in store, including Samantha Treacy and Erin Fetherston
-Petro Zillia (8218): Everything 25% off, including own-label merchandise, Colcci shoes and Wilster frocks
-Polkadots & Moonbeams (8367): Up to 50% off on selected items
-Malgosia ( 8336)): Sale on items from Ranna Gil, Miriam Ocariz, and Rajesh Pratap Singh

Robertson Blvd:
-Lisa Klein (136 S.): Warehouse Sale with up to 70% off labels like Elijah, Paul & Joe, and Manoush
-Kitson (www.shopkitson.com): Web Exclusive Sale, with up to 70% off things like Dolce Vita shoes and Junk Food tees
-Intermix ( 110 N.): Big discounts on Stella McCartney, Norma Kamali, Thread Social, and more

La Brea:
-Bleu (454 S.): Up to 75% off labels like Theory, Boudoir and Generra
-Presse ( 326 S.): 50-60% off labels like Ric Owens, Proenza Schouler and Vena Cava

Beverly Hills:
-Harmony Lane (189 South Beverly): Up to 70% off labels like American Retro, Earnest Sewn and Development
-Saks Fifth Avenue (9600 Wilshire): Up to 70% off labels like Chloe, MaxMara and Dolce & Gabbana - Best for Haute Designer Offerings
-Neiman Marcus ( 9700 Wilshire): Extra 25% off sale items from the likes of Manolo Blahnik, Alexander McQueen and Fendi
-Barney's / Barney's Co-Op (9570 Wilshire): Sale on labels like Graham & Spencer, Marc by Marc, Trovata

Abbot Kinney:
-Brick Lane ( 1132): Up to 50% off labels like Betty Jackson, Nougat and Ted Baker
-A + R (1121): Up to 15% off design-led home & accessories

Santa Monica:
-Blonde (2430 Main): Up to 40% off labels like Cynthia Vincent, Ella Moss, and Kettle Black
-Michael Stars ( 1233 Montana): Up to 40% off cashmere, dresses and tees
-London Sole (1331 Montana): Sale on ballet flats - up to 25%

Orange County:
-Elle H (1833 South Coast Hwy, Laguna Beach): Up to 75% off fall & holiday merchandise from the likes of Eritokritos, Lauren Moffat, and Eva Franco
-Adele (735 South Coast Hwy, Laguna Beach): Up to 50% off labels like Rodebjer, Society for Rational Dress, and Ashish N Soni
-Haute Culture (5628 La Jolla Blvd, La Jolla): 20-60% off labels like Kara Janx, Odyn, and Julie Haus

One to Watch: Marquis & Camus

2007-12-06T20:52:00.000Z

My personal philosophy on jewelry is that there's no point in wearing it if it doesn't make a statement. I think I got this from my grandmother, who had a massive collection of costume jewelry - heavy beaded clip-on earrings that would have looked at home on member a remote African tribe; bright pink marbled reading glasses; and as many chunky gold bangles as her wrists could possibly bear.

So perhaps because of this, I am always attracted to jewelry that starts conversations, makes people ask questions - and why I've become a little obsessed with Marquis & Camus, the new collection from New York based jewelry label Potion, Inc. Each piece in the collection is made from bits and pieces of antique jewelry and found objects - everything from keys to pocket watch gears to chandelier crystals.

True, you can walk into just about any Urban Outfitters and find 'vintage inspired' jewelry, but there's something that's so much more authentic about these pieces. Each one has a story behind it, like the earrings above, which look as though they were made from a man's watch strap - you can actually picture a strapping New York banker wearing this to work every day decades ago. And the fact that each piece is limited-edition by nature (as designer Sarah Kang actually picks each object by hand from flea markets and estate sales) means you won't spot another girl at your knitting circle wearing the same thing.

Not surprisingly, Kang cites history as the inspiration for the collection - "our granmothers' necklaces and embroideries, our grandfathers' suspenders" being just a few elements. Even though my grandmother's necklaces were often made from plastic and I'm pretty sure she never touched an embroidery needle in her life, I have a feeling she would have liked these pieces too - simply because they're sure to make people stop and stare.

http://www.marquiscamus.com/

Euro Invasion: McQueen in LA, Chanel to Robertson

2007-12-06T00:02:00.000Z

WWD has reported that Alexander McQueen is finally going to be setting up shop in LA next April - and, in my opinion, it's about time. Although his flair for the dramatic does clash slightly with the laid-back West Coast aesthetic, his creations are perfect red carpet material. Here's hoping that his arrival will inject a bit of excitement and controversy back into the Hollywood fashion scene, which has been feeling stale for far too long...

WWD has also announced that Chanel and D&G will be opening outposts on Robertson Blvd. in the coming months. A tabloid favorite, the street's boutiques are constantly being namechecked - here a Nicole Ritchie toting her baby weight in Kitson bags, there a Christina Aguilera buying cashmere diaper covers at Bel Bambini, and over there a Lindsay Lohan stocking up on $200 t-shirts at Lisa Kline. Is a smart strategy in terms of increasing column inches, but it does beg the question - who are these labels trying to appeal to? If it's Us Weekly readers, then great - but the brands might end up losing the interest of clients who value exclusivity and the cache of luxury. That is, if they haven't lost them already...

Fash Bash: Deck the Halls, Skip the Malls

2007-12-05T21:17:00.000Z

One of the things that surprised me the most upon moving to LA was the area's independent retail scene. I never really expected there to be so many vibrant little boutiques, selling so many interesting things and attempting to re-define the boundaries of art, fashion, music, commerce, etc.

Which is why I was so startled to read in the LA Times last weekend that several of the most pioneering on the scene have recently made the decision to shut down. Iconology, Filly and Lily Savitch have all shut their doors this year, citing the major department stores' shift towards avant-garde fashion offerings (think Barney's Co-Op) - not to mention their ability to offer deep discounts in an economy where people are wary of spending - as a major factor.

For anyone here who's at all interested in fashion, this is seriously disheartening news. More so than even local designers, retailers like Iconology et. al. are one of the main reasons why LA has gained so much credibility as a fashion destination over the past several years. Without them, the city wouldn't be much different from any other large, yet uninspiring one across the country.

So, with that in mind, I'm hoping that the shops of West 3rd Street get a good turnout for their annual Holiday Shopping Block Party tomorrow night. For those who aren't familiar with the city, West 3rd has perhaps the best concentration of exciting independent boutiques in the city, with shops carrying hard-to-find designers both local and international - and it's no secret that it's by far my favorite place in the city to shop.

In an age where holiday shopping has become a bit of a chore for most people, this is a fantastic way to bring fun back into it. Not only will you find really unique things that you can be sure the recipient doesn't already have (and clued-up sales people that aren't 15 years old to point you in the right direction), but there will also be food and bevvies and live music and a lack of soccer moms fighting over the last pair of Old Navy PJs in size medium. I sadly have plans for that evening so can't attend, but will definitely be making my way down to the area next week - and reporting on the great things I find, for those of you who can't make it down tomorrow either.

Quest for the Ideal Handbag: Junior Drake

2007-12-03T18:14:00.000Z

Everybody's got irrationally high standards about something. For some, it's food; for others, it's men; for me, it's bags. I've been looking for a new bag for over a year now, to no avail - I have no interest in paying thousands of dollars for something hundreds of other women will have (or will have a fake copy of), but still want something with a bit of luxury - in the material, detailing, etc.

So I've decided to begin chronicling my quest here, in hopes that I might be able to offer some suggestions to other picky bag buyers - and also, hopefully, some of you might be able to tip me off to a few good brands as well.

First up is Junior Drake. It's an LA-based brand inspired by the legendary actress Patsy Brown, who used Junior Drake as her stage name. Drake's most famous quote,"It's not the dress, it's the girl," serves as the basis for the brand's ethos - one of individuality, spirit and class.

The main thing that attracts me to the bags is their attention to small details. Things like braiding and pleating give them a luxurious element, and their range of non-traditional colors - like apple-red and burnished pewter - make them perfect for those who want to stand out from a sea of black and brown totes. My favorite is the Andie, pictured above. It's big enough to fit a few large-format style magazines - massively important for me - but at only $448, it doesn't have a price tag to match.

www.juniordrake.com

Why Not Try: Shopping With Your Boyfriend?

2007-11-30T03:39:00.000Z

Working in retail, I have a lot of time to observe people's shopping habits - I find it really interesting, probably because I'm a devout solo shopper and so haven't had had that much exposure to other people's styles. For instance, I had no idea that so many people buy piles and piles of clothes, then return all but one or two things a day later. I didn't realize that people in this country have so few qualms about haggling prices - at a chain retailer! - for seemingly miniscule things (e.g. loose buttons, size tags being cut out of a garment, buying more than one of the same item).

And I also didn't realize how many women bring along their boyfriends as shopping partners - and, even more surprisingly, how willing so many men are to help 'style' their girlfriends. I'd always had this idea that when couples shopped together, the women were usually in charge and the men were grudgingly along for the ride, but it turns out that the opposite is becoming more and more true. In the past few weeks alone, I've seen men leading their girlfriends around the store, picking out winter coats and holiday dresses while said girlfriends passively smiled and nodded; women modelling clothes for men in the fitting rooms - men who were interested and engaged and making suggestions about size and color, then running off to fetch options they deemed more suitable; men bringing their wives' purchases in for returns and exchanges (often picking up a candle or set of dishes at the same time).

Maybe it's just LA, where everyone is slightly more concerned with their image than is really normal - but it's not even Hollywood types who are the most common participants. More often than not it's guys sporting facial hair and flannel, ones who would seem more at home in front of a Nintendo Wii than in a store filled with cookbooks and cocktail dresses and smelly soaps.

I, for one, hope it's a trend that catches on - not only because it would take away the need to choose between shopping and bonding with the boy, but also because it would be really helpful to get his opinion on some of my more...directional...purchases before I buy them - and saving a lot of those 'what ARE you wearing?' looks on future date nights.

Talking Shop: New High (M)art

2007-11-30T03:09:00.000Z

Call me crazy, but I have this theory that Chinatown is set to be the next big shopping destination in LA. First the galleries moved in, then a few renegade boutiques popped up - Munky King with its collectibles and streetwear and, one of my favorites in the city, Welcome Hunters with a fantastic selection of Scandinavian and Aussie fashion - and I just have a hunch that more and more are going to start following suit.

Sometimes I think it might just be wishful thinking on my part, as I am slightly enamored with Chinatown: the oddly comforting scent of ramen noodles that thickens the air, all of the little knicknack shops filled with LA souvenirs left over from the '80s and the Chinese power ballads playing softly on the stereos, the fact that you can buy a box of 100 green jasmine tea bags for less than $2.

But maybe not. New High (M)art is the newest addition to the neighborhood retail scene, tucked away in a nondescript mini-mall between takeout restaurants. It's basically set to be a permanent venue for a monthly rotation of pop-up shops, each one curated by a different fashion personality. The first - and current - one is devoted to Brian Lichtenburg, who is well-known in the city for his unisex club-gear. The shop carries a nice selection of his hoodies, day-glo tank tops, holographic leggings, chunky plastic necklaces and customized Wayfarers, along with mix CDs and photography presumably curated by the designer himself.

It's quite possibly the tiniest retail space I've ever been in, but it still had an impact on me - even though the pop-up concept has been done hundreds of times over in other parts of the world, it's really quite daring for LA. Plus, I love the idea of finding a new shop every time I come to Chinatown to buy my tea. Perhaps my theory isn't so far off after all...

Why Not Try...?: A Statement Hat

2007-10-27T20:25:00.000+01:00

Ever since I was a kid, I've always wanted to be a hat person. I went through a phase in middle school of regularly donning floppy 'Blossom' hats, complete with faux-flowers, baseball caps, and bucket hats, but for some reason , the practice didn't stick with me after the age of about 13.

However, I'm hoping this season will change that. Hats are an integral part of the "old Hollywood" aesthetic we're seeing at the moment, and there's certainly no shortage of them to choose from.

Am not really talking fedoras or beanies - unless you want to look like one of LC's hangers-on from "The Hills" - but elegant, vintage-inspired pieces that are unusual and individual, like the ones below:

The Portrait:

This is probably my favorite style of hat, similar to the ones shown on the Marc Jacobs AW07 runway. It reminds me of the seductive, mysterious heroines of old detective movies. The hat below is the "Smith Larson Portrait," by Portland-based Pinkham Millinery (http://www.pinkhammillinery.com/) - I love the unusual plum shade of the felt & think it would be gorgeous with a black trench.

The Cloche:

As a minimalist at heart, it's only natural that I would love cloches - there's nothing fussy about them, but they're still totally feminine & romantic. They're a good fit with this season's Poiret-inspired coccoon coats - and I love this one from Boring Sidney (http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=7515031), for its soft, yet steely simplicity (excuse the creepy mannequin head).

The Beret:
When wearing a beret, there's always a slight risk of looking like you should be riding a bicycle with a baguette sticking out of the basket - but the cableknit detailing of this one, by Eugenia Kim, gives it a more collegiate feel. Get it from Satine (http://www.satineboutique.com/), to wear while wrapped up in chunky knit sweaters and scarves.

The Feathered Headpiece:

If not styled properly, these can look a little costume-y - so it's probably best to stay away from any vintage clothing while wearing one. I think they're the perfect compliment to a little black dress, since they're really the only accessory you'd need. Boring Sidney also does a great one of these (http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=7289985) - and for just $35!

WTF: Fashion Calling?

2007-10-24T20:00:00.001+01:00

In the ultimate branding exercise, the L.A. Fashion Awards team have created an official ringtone for this year's event. Am not entirely sure what rationale is behind this, especially as it's not really an event paid any attention by anyone other than local fashion insiders - is not as though it's the Oscars or anything, and is not really targeted towards the pre-teens who normally download ringtones. Perhaps is a way of giving loyal followers a chance to make the event last longer than one night, giving them a reminder of the festivities long after they've passed? Who knows.

Either way, the main problem with it is just how awful the tone is - I mean, the stock ringtones that come with most phones are on the same level as this. It reminds me of a theme song attached to one of the Saturday morning NBC teen shows back in the early '90s - think California Dreams, Name Your Adventure, Saved by the Bell, et.al.

The tone can be downloaded here if you're curious...

One to Watch: Rami Kashou

2007-10-24T19:37:00.001+01:00

The L.A. Fashion Awards are nearly upon us again - on Friday October 26th, to be exact - and along with the usual suspects, there's a name on the nominee list I really think is worth watching.

That name is Rami Kashou, a Palestine-born designer and Project Runway alum who has worked on both sides of the fashion business - first studying design at Brooks College, then working as a retail buyer and merchandiser, then moving back into design.

Because of this bredth of experience, Kashou has the unique perspective of knowing what women want to buy - and also how to create those things with technical elan. What's remarkable is the fact that he's largely self taught - he didn't finish his degree at Brooks - given the intricacy and detail of his pieces.

Take his Spring / Summer 07 collection, for example - full of razor-sharp pleating, complicated corsetry and skirts with the perfect pitch of volume, it's full of the technical wizardry that would be expected from a St. Martins-trained designer. My favourite pieces in the collection are his tailored flutter-sleeved blouses - it's no secret to most that I'm having a sleeves moment this season, and these capture the mood perfectly without seeming too fussy or fairy-princess.

Rami Kashou - available at www.letrainbleu.com

Talking Shop: Jenni Kayne

2007-10-24T08:16:00.000+01:00

I feel a bit sacriligious saying this, seeing as I am now an L.A. resident, but I think Jenni Kayne is massively overrated - have seen it all before, and usually done better for half the price. Even so, I thought I'd drop by her new shop in West Hollywood - the first devoted solely to her own designs - in hopes that I'd be pleasantly surprised.

It's filled with the typical Hollywood pretension that normally deters me from the area - lack of signage out front; window displaying a red carpet gown and taxidermied leopard; parking lot filled with Porsches, leggy girls with fake smiles, and the luminescent-sneakered men who love them. Inside is more of the same - all dark wood minimalism and shouty emo music serving as a backdrop to Kayne's unremarkable fall collection and a halfhearted collection of art books, which looked as though they were added as an afterthought to bring some color to the place.

The one upside to the shop is its jewelry collection - an impressive collection of vintage-looking Tiffany watches mixed with chunky statement necklaces and bracelets. I would have asked a bit more about them if Kayne and her shopgirl had been paying any attention to me -however, a visiting friend (who I think may have been the guy who plays the bitchy assistant on Ugly Betty) was taking up all of their attention, and I guess pointedly gazing into the jewelry case for several minutes was not enough of a hint that I was a potential paying customer.

The shop will probably appeal to the customers of Holiday and Maxfield, which are just around the corner on Melrose - but I prefer my shops with a bit more personality, in both atmosphere and merchandise.

New Title, New City, New Beginning

2007-10-19T20:54:00.000+01:00

If anyone is still bothering to read this, I apologize for the...er...six month delay since my last post. You know how it is - things like school, working, moving to another country getting in the way.

Long story short, I recently made the extremely difficult decision to leave London and move back to the US. It just made sense, as my money, visa, and lease on my flat were all due to run out at the same time. Plus, since I'm setting out on a totally new career path, I figured it would be easiest to do it in a place where I can work legally...

Which brings me to the new title of the blog - Maid of Melrose (sorry, David Bowie). Yes, am currently in L.A., for how long am not entirely sure - as am really an East Coaster at heart - but the opportunity came up to live here all-expenses-paid while I try to break into writing. And now that things have calmed down a bit, I'm going to give the blogging thing another try, as it's proved to be a good outlet for me to try out new ideas in the past.

So, from here on in, you can expect to see more of what I wrote about in the past, but with a distinctly L.A. slant - the fashion industry is really starting to grow out here, and I already have a massive list of new shopping destinations, trends, designers and more to tell you all about. So watch this space, and I promise you won't have to endure another half-year wait for new material again..!

xx

no pictures!

2007-02-03T16:37:00.000Z

i've been feeling like a bit of a celebrity lately, and i have a feeling the recent influx of street style blogs may have something to do with it...

earlier this week, i was stopped at an art gallery event by a man with a camera who wanted to take a picture of my ankle boots, as he was working on a project about 'shoes at art galleries'...right. didn't think much of it until i spotted a telephoto lens pointed at me from across the room at dream bags / jaguar shoes a few nights later as i was putting on my vintage fur-lined trench, and then today i was stopped again outside of dover street market by another woman wanting to take a picture of my coat (different coat this time).

in an age where anyone can be a member of the paparrazi and it's not just celebrities who are in their sights, it seems as though we should be re-evaluating exactly what constitutes an invasion of privacy. i don't mind if someone asks me to take my picture and tells me what it's for - is really flattering, actually - but sudden flashbulbs from across a room feel invasive and uncomfortable, especially as it's likely the shots will be published somewhere. i am not a public figure, and therefore no one has the right to photograph me without my consent.

so, for any street-style bloggers reading this, please keep the age-old rules of common courtesy in mind when shooting - a 'please' and a 'thank you' go a long way, and will probably result in a much less grumpy-looking subject in the end.

runway report: new york

2007-02-03T16:04:00.000Z

so the shows have started once again - although, doesn't it seem like they JUST ended?? - and my lunch hours for the next month will be once again spent at my desk browsing through the style.com reports and adding to my ever-growing lookbook. will try to condense my highlights of the day (or, more realistically, week) here, but will say in advance that i tend to look for interesting styling ideas more than for massive new trends.

so, on that note, the best of yesterday's shows, the first set of the week. nothing massively groundbreaking to report - seems as though menswear and exaggerated layering aren't going anywhere - but there were a couple of clever touches that made me smile:

coccoon-shaped cable cardi at yigal azrouel - i am slightly obsessed with oversized cardigans, and would wear this with leggings and a plain vest top. and am loooving the geek glasses the models all wore in this show! definitely could see this becoming a more mainstream eyewear look.

leather button-up 'legwarmers' at rag and bone - am sure there is a proper name for these, but it's escaping me at the moment...anyone?

one to watch: reiss

2007-02-03T15:57:00.000Z

i've never been a huge fan of reiss - have always thought it a bit dull, a bit corporate, a bit unadventurous - and i don't think i'm alone. however, i am really impressed with their spring '07 collection, which arrived in stores this week, so much so that i actually wanted to buy almost everything i saw.

thin heather grey cotton jersey dresses with interesting pleating around the necklines...jewel-toned silk pencil skirts with big buttons up the front...oversized cardis with massive, graphic buttons styled over beaded flapper dresses...everything completely on-trend for the upcoming season, with the potential to be a staple piece of my spring wardrobe. am definitely going to be making a trip back there once pay day rolls around...

neighbourhood watch: whitecross street, ec1

2007-01-29T22:27:00.000Z

my favourite places in london tend to fall into one of two categories - either they are so quintessentially english that they make you feel as though you're part of a working title film, or they make you feel as though you're in a totally different city altogether.

whitecross street, just off of old street in ec1, is a part of the latter group. essentially a part of the barbican district, the street is surrounded by soviet-inspired tower blocks and construction cranes, which gives the street a sort of eastern-bloc vibe, and actually does make it seem as though you're on holiday in a foreign country.

the shops, too, are quite atypical of london - most notable is bread and honey, whose utilitarian streetwear is reminiscent of that found in london or tokyo (but doesnt totally leave out the hipsters and girly-girls - is still a great place to stock up on skinny black lees or not-so-innocent chiffon dresses like this sweet leopard print one from laura lee)

a small, continental market is open on the weekends, which usually isn't too inspiring, selling not much more than 3-for-a-fiver 'pashminas' and cheap leather satchels - but it sometimes is transformed into an upscale food market along the lines of exmouth for special occasions like christmas - check the website for details

finally, there have been some fantastic small gallery openings on the street over the past few years - madder rose gallery always has consistently exceptional shows from emerging artists, while newcomer ancient and modern is definitely one to watch - their inaugural exhibition included works from the likes of jeremy deller and ricky swallow.

wtf: topshop 'corset' jeans

2007-01-21T19:09:00.000Z

ok, so i am actually a massive fan of high-waisted bottoms - i own a pair of rib-skimming black shorts and think they are hugely flattering, get loads of compliments on them, etc.

however, think topshop has gone a bit too far with their 'corset' style jeans, in the picture above. first of all, what's with the two contrasting shades of denim? guess it's meant to look as though you're wearing a denim corset WITH denim jeans and not a pseudo-onesie - but when has dark denim on light denim ever been a good look?

then, there's the fit issue. i can't see how, unless you are 6'5 and built like a nine year old boy, these could possibly be flattering on anyone. all they would serve to do is showcase bumps and bulges and make legs resemble turkey drumsticks.

so yes - way to go, topshop, for trying to be directional, but i have a feeling you've not struck gold with these.

loving: macabre jewellery

2007-01-18T20:48:00.000Z

whilst my dress sense is normally quite minimalist, i have never been one to play it safe with jewellery. my latest obsession is with somewhat dark and talismanic statement pieces, reminiscent of a 19th century memento mori - some favourites as follows

antler charm and 'cavity' pendant, alex and chloe

wishbone pendant, dinny hall

hamsa hand, shari wacks

dress code: winter weddings

2007-01-16T03:07:00.000Z

winter occasion dressing is supposed to be easy, right? during the holiday party season, the clear message seems to be that all that's needed for festive fun is a sparkly little frock, vertiginous heels, and a tube of red lipstick - and what's so hard about that?

nothing, really - but after the fairy lights have been boxed up and the party hats turned to firewood, things become a bit trickier. enter the season of the winter wedding, in which the rules are a bit more difficult to navigate.

for one thing, weddings tend to be more conservative occasions than holiday parties - after all, there are normally more over 50's present than potential dates - and the former won't appreciate a wonderbra and set of sparkly tights as much as the latter. plus, there's the whole 'upstaging the bride' thing. the end result, as i witnessed at my first winter wedding of the year last weekend, is normally a sea of little black dresses and pearls - but aren't weddings supposed to be celebritory occasions - and, in effect, a chance for guests to have fun with what they wear?

contrary to what most people seem to think, i have set out to prove there IS a middle ground between the sequins and lace of holiday dressing and the funereal black shift that tends to dominate winter weddings, and have found a few looks that are fun without being frivolous, and attention-grabbing without being attention-seeking:

option 1: country club classic

this '60's inspired tunic dress is conservative enough for a country club wedding, yet the flared sleeves and magenta silk fabric ensure it stays interesting. i like it with jaunty heels in a contrasting shade, but the less daring could pair it with a pair of opaque tights and black patent courts.

*outfit by topshop and available at topshop.com*

option 2: city hall chic

the head-turning graphic on the front of this dress by balenciaga is the perfect marriage of art and fashion - perfect for an urban wedding. i would pair it with simple flats and handbag and no jewellery, letting the dress speak for itself

*dress by balenciaga, shoes by coccinelle, clutch by karma, all available at yoox.com*

option 3: ravishing at the ritz

a black-tie invitation doesn't necessarily mean you need to wear black - rather, it's a perfect opportunity to sparkle in a subdued version of this season's metallics

*dress by julie haus, shoes by cynthia vincent, bracelets by bing bang, all available at shopbop.com*

red carpet report: golden globes top 5

2007-01-16T02:10:00.000Z

the one good thing about having my flight back to london cancelled (don't ask...) is that i got to play fashion police during the golden globes red carpet pre-show.

no major surprises in terms of what people were wearing...lots of white, lots of marchesa, lots of gratuitous draping. however, there were a couple of looks that really stood out for me, with my top five below:

1. angelina jolie in st. john: even though i personally think dove grey is a fantastic colour to wear, and even though it is one of the ubiquitous colours of this season, it still seems to get a perpetually bad rep - and in most cases, it's perfectly justified, as the wrong shade of grey does tend to wash out even the most glowing of complexions. angelina gets it perfectly right here, and has given me faith that, despite all the bad press it's been getting, the right grey IS really flattering. the dress itself is nothing special, but its colour, paired really well with gold jewellery, was for me one of the highlights of the night

2. jada pinkett smith in...??: another fantastic example of how colour can totally make an outfit. the shade of salmon pink is so unexpected for this time of year, and just works so well with jada's complexion - her stylist clearly knows her stuff. again, in any other colour this dress would be mediocre, but the colour really makes it - and, yet again, am loving the gold vine necklace.

3. cameron diaz in what appears to be chanel?: on anyone else this dress would border on the ridiculous, but cameron has the confidence and joie de vivre to pull it off while still looking like class incarnate. it's quite unusual to see her in something long, so this is a nice departure for her - and a fantastic choice for the first big night out after a breakup when she knows she's going to see her ex. bet he's absolutely DYING right now. love, love, love it.

4. chloe sevigny in ysl: ok, ignore the fact that she looks like a caveman in this picture and hear me out...now, i may be a bit biased because chloe is my personal style icon and i would probably continue to rave about her even if she turned up wearing cowboy boots and a peasant skirt, but think about it: how often do you see prints on the red carpet? i probably would have picked different shoes, but that's besides the point - she's daring to be different in an age where stylists take all of the risks and fun out of red carpet dressing - and for that, i salute her.

5. cate blanchett in alexander mcqueen: a perfect example of how to stand out in a little black dress. this gothic lace gown looks stunning against cate's fair hair and skin, and i love the exaggerated hips - so directional, dahling!

honourable mention goes to america ferrera for wearing brian reyes when she must have been inundated with dresses from more 'established' designers - even though it is not my taste at all, is great that she's working with emerging talent.

try as i might, i couldn't find anyone who looked particularly shameful - with the exception of vanessa williams' faux-fro and jennifer love hewett's muddy poo coloured merangue, everyone else was quite non-offensive. which is cause for concern in itself, if you ask me...

**all pictures courtesy of people.com and e! online**

clothes rage: dresses over pants

2007-01-12T03:39:00.000Z

was just flipping through the february issue of US Harper's Bazaar (fantastic cover, by the way - and yes, I do read more than just HB, but I happen to have a large stack of back issues I'm working through at the moment), when I came across the 'Buy, Keep, Store' feature outlining, cryptically enough, what to buy, what to keep in your wardrobe, and what items to pack away for the coming season.

to my dismay, in the 'buy' section was the advice to wear a dress over pants, as Derek Lam illustrates in the image above. now, those who know me know that there is nothing that winds me up more than when women wear dresses over jeans or pants, and i figure now is a good opportunity to explain to you why.

what is the point of a dress if not to give the wearer a sense of allure and femininity? no matter what a woman's body type, the right dress will show just enough leg and hug all the right curves, and will ultimately transform her into a beacon of style and sensuality who no man will be able to resist - and of whom no woman will be able to resist being jealous. WHY, i ask you, would any sane individual choose to hide that bit of leg under faded and fraying denim, or choose to compromise those sleek curves with trouser lumps and bumps?

for those who prefer a longer top with their jeans - for the love of god, wear a LONG TOP. there is no shortage of tunic, babydoll, or just plain extra-long tees in the shops at the moment, nor has there been since this hideous trend began. i am more of an advocate than most people of, shall we say, 'creative' styling, but to me this combination always seems to look messy. so save your dvf wrap for a special occasion and stop pairing it with your sevens, please. that is all.

*photo courtesy of style.com*

how to wear: the puff sleeve

2007-01-11T16:53:00.000Z

So far, I've been really welcoming of the 80's revival - I mean, some of my best memories were carried out in spandex bike shorts and day-glo, so a return to these elements in everyday attire can only bring about a nostalgia for days more carefree. However, I was a little bit sceptical when I saw a shoot that included this Chloe dress in the January issue of US Harper's Bazaar.

Ah, the puff sleeve. Perhaps the most potent symbol of 80's excess, the puff sleeve had a way of turning up in every wedding and prom photo of that decade, and it seemed as though the bigger and more embellished, the better. I had thought that this was a trend that was destined never to return, one that was so clownish and impractical that it could never work in a contemporary aesthetic - but clearly, I was wrong.

And the funny thing is, the more I've looked at this picture, the more the puff sleeve seems to work. First of all, it's a unique way of incorporating the current volume trend into an outfit for the smaller-framed who might otherwise be swallowed by it, or those who are tired of the bubble / tulip / egg-shaped skirts that have been knocking round for the last few seasons. Also, the mood of the new season clearly seems to be 'anything goes' - so why not? Inflated sleeves are fun, tongue-in-cheek conversation pieces, and as long as the rest of the outfit is kept simple, there's no reason not to experiment with them. Plus, the bigger the sleeve, the smaller the arm appears - which, after a month of holiday gluttony, can only be a good thing.

*photo courtesy of style.com*

new launch: LOOK magazine

2007-01-11T16:00:00.000Z

ok, a little bit slow with this one, but i have the excuse of being on a different continent...

so IPC has revealed plans for their new women's weekly, which is set to be called LOOK. As predicted, its USP is almost identical to that of Grazia, but for a slightly younger audience - according to the press release issued by IPC, "LOOK will deliver an unparalleled mix of up-to-the-minute affordable fashion, high street shopping advice, celebrity style and gossip. It will be the glossy, fast fashion fix for today's discerning young woman."

Maybe it's because I had really high expectations for this launch, but I can't help but feel a little disappointed. I'm perhaps Grazia's biggest cheerleader (bordering on deranged fan), and I guess I was hoping for something a little bit closer to Grazia's proposition - a bit more aspirational, a bit more glossy, a bit more design-led - but also relevant to someone my age. I mean, I'm sure there is a massive audience for a weekly 'high-street shopping guide,' but to me, the best thing about Grazia is the escape it provides - the fact that for an hour each week, I can immerse myself in a luxurious, beautiful world of shoes I will never be able to afford and the glamourous lives of the rich and famous that I will never lead. I don't really want to hear about the latest high-street finds - I shop on the high street several times a week as it is, and that's enough for me.

The point is, I still feel that there's a gap in the weekly magazine market for an upmarket glossy targeted at a 20-something audience. I think my ideal weekly would combine the aspirational fashion coverage of Grazia (although perhaps with a focus on up-and-coming, lesser-known designers) combined with features more relevant to my generation (e.g. less IVF and plastic surgery) and daring layout / design / shoots (not just a direct copy of Grazia - I mean, come ON, they've even used Jennifer Aniston on the dummy cover - who else put her on the cover of their launch issue? hmm..). I can't really blame IPC because they're continuing to speak to their core mid / lower-market weekly audience with this title, which makes perfect sense - after all, they are the home of most of the 'I had a tumour the size of a football' real-life weeklies on the shelves today. Perhaps I should just start one myself - anyone with me?

one to watch: alice ritter

2007-01-10T22:06:00.000Z

already the darling of new york's fashion elite, alice ritter has recently been caught on my radar - and i'm loving what i've seen. the french-born designer has been showing her sweetly romantic collections in new york for the past three seasons - all of which have evoked a nostalgic sense of casual, off-duty glamour that is ever so old hollywood.

my favourite pieces are ritter's signature bubble shorts - even though they tick multiple trend boxes for next season (high waist; micro length; volume), they are still faintly reminiscent of a simpler, bygone era, like something one would wear to pick blueberries along with a headscarf of some persuasion.

according to the designer's official website, her collections aren't yet available in the UK - so big smokers will need to hop across to collette if they want to score something from ritter's new season collection.

*image thanks to New York Magazine*

mark your diaries: paul poiret at the costume institute

2007-01-10T21:44:00.000Z

while browsing the website of the costume institute of the met to find a bit more information about the current nan kempner exhibition, i learned that the institute is going to be hosting a paul poiret exhibition from 9th May. i don't know much about poiret except that he is known for his loose-fitting, draped garments that helped to liberate women from their corsets in the early 20th century, but my interest was really piqued when i learned that the CI is going to "explore Poiret’s modernity in relation to and as an expression of the dominant discourses of the early 20th century, including Cubism, Classicism, Orientalism, Symbolism, and Primitivism."

i can't stand it when purists argue that fashion is a less valid art form than any of the other visual arts - and it's always really refreshing to me to see it treated as such. if anything, i believe that fashion is THE most vital form of craftsmanship, as it touches each and every one of our everyday lives. it's nice to see the costume institute treating such an important designer as the artist that he is by including him as a part of some of the last century's biggest visual art movements, and i only wish that more galleries and museums would follow suit...

*thanks to wikipedia for the above image*

how to wear: stylish winter footwear

2007-01-10T21:25:00.000Z

don't get me wrong, it's not that I don't like snow - I mean, it's nice to look at from the comfort of a warm living room with a fire burning, as long as I don't have to venture out into it. the thing is, I'm a shoe person, and the precarious heels, glitzy embellishments and smooth soles that feed my footwear addiction don't really perform well on slush and black ice.

good thing, then, that i invested in a pair of fantastic aldo motorcycle boots before i came back to upstate new york for a month in the dead of winter. not only are they flattering, making my size 8.5 feet look positively dainty despite their chunkiness, but they add a bit of edge to any outfit, from skinny jeans & a boyfriend sweater to a minidress & thick tights. i can even see them crossing over into spring / summer - after all, what works in two feet of snow will surely work in springtime London rain or at a muddy summer festival with a little american apparrel t-shirt dress.

(this was the closest picture i could find - however, mine do not sport the massive flaming skull, but instead a simple silver ring.)

oh, roland

2006-11-19T20:28:00.000Z

know i'm a bit slow on the uptake with this one, but i couldn't let a travesty such as this go without saying something.

WHAT was roland mouret thinking when he unveiled these potato sacks posing as dresses the other week? the belted one is at least slightly wearable - if not made from a scratchy material that really does not justify the 80GBP price tag - but the smocks! oh, the smocks! the girls in the above photos look like they should be wearing rubber gloves and armed with a bottle of window cleaner - housekeeper chic, perhaps?

i think if it were any other designer, i wouldn't have been as disappointed - but when i first heard roland mouret was going to be designing a line for gap, i was hoping that his impeccible tailoring and knack for making the most out of the female figure would come into play in some way - these shapeless bags seem like such a waste of his talents.

how to wear: schoolgirl chic

2006-11-19T19:17:00.000Z

stuck in germany for a few hours after a work meeting last week, i decided to take a browse round H&M before heading to the airport. i'm not normally a big H&M shopper, but i find that the quality of the clothes is better on the continent than in the UK for some reason, so i try and make a point to stop in whenever i'm travelling there.

i found myself strangely drawn to the hoseiry aisle, particularly a few pairs of thick, woolly, cable-knit knee socks in school uniform shades of navy, grey and ivory. i was a bit short on time & inspiration at that point, so i didn't buy them, but i haven't been able to think about them since, especially after seeing this girl sporting an adorable bright green pair on the sartorialist.

as the temperature drops and leggings start to become impractical, thick, high socks seem like a good alternative for knee-down accessorising. i'm thinking of layering them over dark, opaque tights , peeking out of the top of chunky, flat riding boots, or even just on their own with a pinafore dress and heeled brogues. with the return to 90's in full force with black skinny trousers and grungy parkas filling the shops, it's only natural that other icons of the decade, like cher horowitz and britney, should be referenced as well, no?

red carpet daydreams: emmy's

2006-08-28T13:07:00.000+01:00

like many people, the only reason i ever watch award shows is to check out what everyone is wearing. what can i say, is the fashion police officer in me. i've actually been away from the US for too long to really remember what to expect from each show (the emmy's are like the oscars for tv, no?), but even so, i have to say i was really disappointed with this selection - everyone looked like they'd been dressed by a soap opera stylist.

the best:

katherine heigl, obviously - you really can't go wrong with vintage escada. however, she was the best of a bad bunch of sequin & lace prom dresses, and i don't think i'd normally be getting too excited over this. not incredibly creative and won't be remembered tomorrow.

the worst

oh, eva. normally you do so well...and the thing is, i really like this dress, but it's just far too overpowering for her tiny frame. it looks like she's playing dress-up in her mother's closet. and the shoes are much too clunky and awkward for such a statement dress. no, no, no.

if the red carpet were lucky enough to be graced with my presence, am thinking this would be my look of choice - i quite like the idea of going short and minimalist when you know you'll be amidst a sea of long jewel-toned silk gowns. would dress up with a statement ring of some sort and black patent louboutins:

Preen A/W 06 (Marcio Madiera for Style.com)

Inspired by: Krystle Grant Jennings Carrington

2006-08-26T22:10:00.000+01:00

some kids played barbie and ken, some played doctor - however, always the aspirational one, i played dynasty. i wanted to be krystle carrington (scary, i know) - the voluminous frosted hair, the glamourous gold lame, the swimming pool in the backyard.

and this season, i kind of want to be her again. last weekend i visited fowey, which is, in my opinion, the best-edited vintage boutique in london, and stocked up on enough plunging v-necklines, bloused sleeves, gold appliques and obscene hemlines to rival the collection of any texan trophy wife. even shoulder pads are not totally off limits. think i'm going to pass on the feathered bangs, however.

tartan-tastic

2006-08-26T21:33:00.000+01:00

have to admit that when i first saw that tartan was going to be big this season, i wasn't hugely enthusiastic. i find tartan to be really difficult to pull off if you aren't in a band / don't have a country house and hunting dogs / aren't keen on hearing people sing 'hit me baby, one more time!' when you walk by. it reminds me of being an awkward 14-year old, wearing a plaid mini-kilt, argyle sweater vest and collared shirt and knee socks in a misguided attempt to look like cher from clueless.

however, my tune has quite possibly changed after spotting this sara berman wrap dress (photo courtesy of anthropologie.com)

everything about it is so modern: the navy / white print, the full skirt and puff sleeves, the crisp silk fabric. it's molly ringwald meets braveheart. opaque tights & platform peep-toes would complete the look

2006-08-26T20:06:00.000+01:00

'so,' said Important Admissions Man between drags of his marlboro light, 'why do you want to take this course?'

i knew it was coming, and i'd carefully crafted an answer in the shower that morning, trying to best articulate all the reasons why i've decided to sack in my successful media career and try to start all over again as a writer - 'try' being the key word.

long story short, i've always loved to write, but somehow got sidetracked along the way, around the age of 13 when spending weekends hand-writing stories in a mickey mouse binder is no longer the done thing. i've also always loved fashion, something that has never been sidetracked (despite my best intentions, at times). put the two together and what have you got?

i've started telling select people about this new direction, and the reaction is usually the same - big fake smiles and glazed expressions that say 'fashion writing - not REALLY writing, is it?' it's to be expected, really - after all, no matter how intelligent or witty they are, fashion journalists are never taken as seriously as other writers. and, a lot of the time, this is justified. it's a profession that attracts the shallow, the superficial, the daddy's girls who have the money and connections to spend six months working for free at vogue, and for very little after that.

so yes, i do agree that some fashion writing is a bit of a joke, which is a shame, as i can't think of many other disciplines that offer as much room for comment, critique and debate. i mean, as inconsequential as it seems, fashion is important. it fulfills a basic need in which each & every member of society must participate on some level. it's the ultimate example of an interactive art form, one that requires ridiculous level of precision, talent and ingenuity on the part of the creator, and then goes on to require yet another level of creativity when interpreted by the consumer. it brings forth extremes in emotion, from the rush of giddiness that comes with finding that perfect little black dress to the anguish that is felt when those ass-boosting jeans that worked magic at uni parties can no longer be pulled up past the knees. it brings people together and keeps people apart. it can be intellectualised to no end, but at its core is completely frivolous. it drives economies, it reflects the deepest psyche of our society, and yet is still given second-rate treatment by 'serious' cultural commentators.

and yes, there are some fantastic fashion writers out there, but i believe that until fashion is taken more seriously, there's always room for more. which, in short, is why i'd like to give it a go - i feel like i can contribute something.

of course, i didn't say this in my interview - was far too nervous and Important Admissions Man cut me off after the first couple of lines to ask me where i got my boots. i'm not sure why i felt the need to record it - i guess because i know that no matter what happens, it's not going to be easy and it's all too likely i'm going to fail and be forced to slink sheepishly back to my old life, so i just want some kind of reminder of why i've taken this risk in the first place...